First my apologies that I am sending the text for this post separate from the associated images. Surprisingly the internet in the far reaches of Loikaw was better than the completely abysmal internet here in the biggest tourist area in the country. Never saw that coming. So I cannot open a webpage to post directly. I will ‘send’ everything by email and hope that they send over time.
So…
At the requisite, local, morning market we bought a couple of dragonfruits and made a very quick stop at a particularly unimpressive little, local museum. Then we headed to the biggest teaching monastery in town. In all honestly, daily visits to temples and monasteries can become as tedious and unexciting as, say, kudu on safari or bison in Yellowstone National Park. So, we were somewhat less than enthused when we found ourselves sitting around with nothing much going on at 10A. Sure a few young novice monks were washing dishes on the balcony/porch above, and I found the drinking water filtration system fascinating but that was about it. However, just before 10:30 the lunch bell was rung and every young monk in the place miraculously materialized to find his place in line with his towel to sit on (they apparently have to sit on something of their own rather than just on the ground) and his big silver bowl. They all filed into the dining room, took their places there, dished out their food, and then settled in to say their version of grace which included thanking the donor who brought lunch. So ultimately pretty cool.
Then we had lunch. First our guide stopped to pick us up some local favorites (surprisingly tasty pork sausage and some cousin to tamales made with rice flour and onions) which we then took with us to a VERY local restaurant. At least now, almost 48 hours later I think it is safe to say that we did not get sick, but it really could have gone either way.
Then, we embarked on the whole point of our being in Loikaw in the first place, visiting the Padaung tribe, commonly known as the long-necked ladies. It was another hour drive out into the country side. Again, beautiful vistas along the way. The rings are first applied around 5 years of age but not all girls get them anymore so only three girls at the primary chool had them on. Other than one woman who was probably about 40, all of the other women we saw with them on (maybe a dozen) were much older. Whether the traditions continue, unfortunately, hinges a lot on tourism. We always felt that it was our responsibility to go to see more primitive peoples BEFORE they progressed into the 21st century but in many cases they do maintain their cultures primarily BECAUSE bringing tourism to their villages is their best hope of earning income. Michael did buy a set of the rings (they wear them on the upper calves, too) but the real coup was when he managed to buy a bamboo spoon from one of the ladies at the first house we visited. I’m sure she thought he was insane asking for it, and it’s just a tiny, little thing, but it will fit nicely into his collection.
Once back in town, we found our way back to the local pagoda just at sunset to get some stunning photographs just as the lights came on.
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