Fishing for Tigers

Day 1 of our search teaches us a few things. Some we learn quickly. Some take more time.
First, ENGLISH SPEAKING does not necessarily imply ENGLISH UNDERSTANDING. From the gents who showed up late to fetch us at the airport and then turned our 'quick let us buy some munchies for the ride' into a sit down lunch for themselves while we stood waiting on the side of the road holding our cheetos bags in the hot sun to the drivers and guides on the game vehicles - communicating was a significant problem.
Second, TIGER HUNTING IS MORE LIKE TIGER FISHING but without the bait. We drove apparently aimlessly through Kanha Park stopping occasionally for what appeared to be no particular reason. In addition, nobody and no vehicles are equipped with any means of communication. Staggering in this day and age, but if one vehicle miraculously stumbles across a tiger, there is no way to alert any other vehicles to its presence.
After two game drives our spirits are really low. Not so much because we were so sure we'd see a tiger immediately. We knew it wouldn't be easy peasy. But we did not understand the process and so had no faith at all in its ability to succeed.
At dinner. Out on the lawn under the full moon light, we asked the lodge manager why things are the way they are here, and he explained that the park service, given their druthers, would not allow anyone into the park. Their compromise is apparently to let some people in but to stifle their abilities. Further, guides have to come from the local community so that education, training and competence can be less than ideal.
Tomorrow Vijay, the lodge's naturalist, who speaks excellent English, is coming with us. So just like this black-faced monkey clings to this tree we cling to hope. (Sorry, I have to send this without the monkey picture. But you get my drift.)
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