This is our last night in Nepal. Tomorrow we go back to
Delhi and then start traveling home. It’s been a different kind of whirlwind here.
In India we were traveling every day for hours on end so I had plenty of time
in the van to blog. Here in Nepal, my Blackberry doesn’t work and even though
our guide here likes to start out at the civilized hour of 9:30AM, we have been
out and about all day so I’ve sort of fallen behind - posting mostly photographs
without a lot of narrative. I will endeavor to throw in some stories now.
I will start with the Kumari Devi…the living goddess who resides in
Durbar Square here in Kathmandu. This young girl is chosen at a very young age
based on over 30 different criteria ranging from eye color to the shape of her
teeth and the sound of her voice. In spite of these stringent requirements apparently more than one girl
is found to be suitable so a contest of demeanor and will takes place. All of
the eligible girls are placed in a dark room along with a bunch of grotesque,
bloody, buffalo heads while a bunch of old men run around outside of the room
making scary noises. The girl who remains most calm is anointed as the Kumari
living goddess.
She and her family then move into the Kumari
residence and are supported by the temple through donations made in her behalf. She is
tutored within the residence and only ventures out to make certain public
appearances. Her “reign” as the goddess comes to an end the minute she reaches
puberty and a new goddess is selected to replace her. She reverts to being
mortal but doesn’t leave empty-handed. She receives a substantial dowry from
the temple as a parting gift. Unfortunately, it is considered to be very bad
luck to marry an ex-Kumari Goddess (the joke being that maybe it’s just not
wise to marry someone who has lived such a favored existence).
Since I don’t have a photo of the current Kumari Living Goddess,
I’m offering up images of three, regular, every day Nepali goddesses.
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