Basilica of St Francis of Assisi

We made it to Assisi and toured the Basilica there. The interiors are highly frescoed and seem darker by comparison, I think. But it is certainly a huge place given that it is actually divided into Upper and Lower Basilicas.

Our stroll through town heading up to the Basilica of Santa Chiara took us past slightly more touristy shops than we've encountered so far...as evidenced by the Leonardo and Pinocchio T-shirts and the Assisi Slingshots that were on display, but that was balanced by the abundance of flour pots and some adorable little side streets. We came upon the Piazza del Comune just about 12:30P...just in time for lunch. The sun was shining, people were sitting out at tables, it was just the opportunity we'd been waiting for. So we sat ourselves down to soak up some sunshine and to enjoy some dining a fuori. The occasional cloud rolled over us, but I was instructed not to make any mention of the weather (aka no bitching) so as not to jinx us. (That would be the same reason I left the umbrellas in the car down below, but why dwell on the little details?)

Well, when the locals started moving under arches and the waitress refused to seat more patrons and started stripping the tables, it became apparent that something bad was coming. The temperature quickly dropped at least 10 degrees, the skies grew really dark and the wind started up. We got the bill paid and started up the last little bit to the Basilica just as it started drizzling. By the time we got into the church the thunder and lightning was starting.

Depending on your perspective, we either took shelter in the church or escaped the wrath of God there, but either way that's where we rode out the storm. Luckily it blew over rather quickly and after 20 minutes or so we were down to a light rain so we hauled ass back down the hill again. (Well, I hauled ass down the hill. Merry and Michael stopped to shop along the way. But in all fairness, Merry had her umbrella with her....she had probably jinxed us by carrying it in the first place but I'm not one to point fingers....so she was not it quite the hurry that I was to move on.)

Now we are back in Todi. None the worse for wear but growing ever so slightly weary of the weather pattern.

 

This morning

After what was apparently a pretty impressive thunderstorm last night we have the sunniest morning so far, Off to Assisi.

 

Anniversary

Yesterday was our 25th Wedding Anniversary so we headed off to Orvieto for the day. It sprinkled on us just a bit when we were leaving but cleared while we were driving over the hill so that it was gorgeous when we arrived. We parked in the lot at the funicular and bought our tickets for the lift and for entry into all of the sights. I realized later that we hadn't asked for Michael's 'senior' concession price and then I looked at the document and saw that she gave us BOTH the old folks' price! Great! On the up side, I saved 3 euros.

Then before we got on the lift Michael turned on his camera only to find out that it didn't turn on. The batteries (both of them) were dead. And he'd charged them overnight. I saw him do it. No matter how many times he took the batteries out and put them back in and blew on them and wiped the connections and put them back in...no luck. So MORE electrical problems. On the up side, we left the camera in the car and didn't have to carry it around all day.

The tour started off with a visit to San Patrizio's Well. I asked the ticket checker how many "scale" (steps) there were, and I believe she answered 248! So we walked down ten or so until we could see into the well, walked right back up, and in my best Italian I told the woman, Very Nice. We don't need to walk down all of them. Thank you. And on the up side, not having a camera I can't bore you with any photos of the well shaft.

Then we went to check in for our tour of the Underground. Apparently there are thousands of caves dug under Orvieto. Many of them are 'private' caves under people's houses that they use for wine cellars and such. But two caves are open to the public. And they are awesome. The people had olive oil mills under there and the donkeys who turned the wheels under there and wells under there and the coolest pigeon coops under there with rows of little square pigeon holes in the walls, fresh water pouring into troughs and a bigger hole for the pigeons to go out and feed themselves during the day. And interestingly enough, at one point a Pope declared that everyone had to close up their pigeon coops because those access holes were a security issue...that invaders could scale the cliffs and come into the city through those holes. In actual fact, the guide suggested that it was really that the townspeople could smuggle goods into their own homes that way and avoid paying taxes to the Pope. (Hey, I live in Anguilla and deal with Customs so that sounds about right to me.)

Anyway, after all of that climbing up and down in the caves we were ready for lunch. We found a nice little place where I told the waiter in my best Italian that it was our 25th wedding anniversary and scored us a complimentary glass of sparkling muscat! After lunch the clouds and wind had come in so we hit a museum and then came back to Todi. By the time we got the camera batteries charged again it was getting late but Michael wanted at least one picture taken of us on our anniversary so we ventured out in search of someone to 'fa una foto' for us.  Michael tried to take one of us himself but either his arm is too short or our heads are too big (or both). The crowds were thin, but we found one accommodating gentleman on the Piazza del Popolo who though he was taking multiple shots but never actually took a single one. Finally another young woman was successful so we did get this one. Happy Anniversary!

 

 

FINALLY

Yesterday the weather improved some and today it improved even more. It may have actually hit 70 degrees today....but even if it didn't it felt wonderful.

We stayed close to home yesterday since we were seeing Robin and Faye off at the local bus station (read parking lot across from gas station) for their trip into Rome. Then we came home, tidied up and got ready to meet Merry upon her arrival in from Oregon. As we sat OUTDOORS at the coffee shop across from the Chiesa Santa Maria della Consolazione, all I could think was thank heavens that I posted that photo of the hail storm otherwise no one would have believed that I wasn't making up tall weather tales all along.

Today we decided to take a short day trip down to a little town called Amelia. Merry was going to drive because her Neverlost had died in her rental car on the way up yesterday and she wanted to try to figure out what the problem was. When we got in her car this morning, the Neverlost wouldn't work. So I plugged in our Garmin and it didn't work either. So three brilliant, medical diagnosticians that we are, we concluded that the outlet in her car was not supplying electricity, that the battery charge had run down on her way up and that she was going to need to contact the rental car company......that company being.......you guessed it......Hertz!

So first we went off to Amelia. A little wee town with pretty much nothing to see except that we did happen into the Cathedral when their finest painting of the Assumption was being displayed ( it is only uncovered during dates in May and August). I will post this picture of the view instead because I think it's more beautiful.

Then we spent a great deal of time roaming around looking unsuccessfully for someplace to eat. Oh and I did learn a lesson: If you have a hard enough time understanding spoken Italian under the best of circumstances, do not ask directions from old men with no teeth!

Anyway, we booked on over to Narni to try to recreate our last 'something is wrong with our rental car' luncheon at the restaurant there where Michael really enjoyed his potato pizza but sadly they were closed. So we grabbed a quick bite and then headed for our old stomping grounds in Orvieto Scalo to find the Hertz office for Merry. Miraculously (given that we being driven there last time) we drove right to it arriving just 15 minutes before they opened after lunch. Merry had no trouble explaining the problem. The logical next step was taken, the Neverlost was plugged into another vehicle and found to work. So the cars were switched out and off we went arriving home to Todi in time to enjoy a gelato SITTING OUTSIDE for the very first time in 8 days followed by homemade Campari Spritz and chips on our precious little balcony in SHORT SLEEVES at sunset.

Che Bella!
 

Wine and Poppies

Yesterday was a good day. The very best so far. I didn't break out my sundress or abandon my jacket but it barely drizzled on us once and was otherwise partly cloudy and breezy but nice. This break in the weather was welcome for many reasons: we were growing weary of freezing, it was Faye and Robin's last day in Umbria, and Sunday was the Cantine Aperte.

Cantine Aperte is a festival day throughout Umbria when some 57 wineries open their doors for wine tasting, food tasting and music. You buy your glass (proceeds to charity) at your first cantina and carry it in a convenient hands-free pouch/purse everywhere you go. The night before Robin and I plotted out a course to take in 8 wineries between here and Montefalco with our first stop here near Todi at Roccafiori at 11am. We were some of the first visitors knocking on their doors to enjoy chocolate and jam tastings, free pizza and sausages along with a sampling of wines. So we had nearly recouped the 5 euro glass price and we had only just begun!

After that every cantina was different. One with scenic views and a dj playing swing and jazz. Another in an industrial park with a decidely biker dude crowd. Some with free food tastings, others with food for sale, one with peculiar little games, but all of them with wine. Here's a photo of us at one of our stops. Somebody's glass is empty but I guarantee you that it did not stay that way for long!

The views were spectacular as we traveled along especially driving along the ridge where we could see Todi off to the west and the snow-capped mountains off to the east.

Coming up on what we thought was closing time at 6p we headed to our last stop that turned out to be a warehouse on a main road in an industrial area. We were almost inclined to skip it and head home.....but of course we had our glasses handy and we were there already and we needed a bathroom anyway so we figured what the heck. What a surprise. The people were friendly and exceptionally generous with their wine and crackers. And there was a little band of sorts setting up in the parking lot near a bunch of picnic tables.  As is typical here they sang all, old, American songs accompanied by guitars and a flute (not so typical) and everybody was having a grand old time - us included.

So it turned out to be a fitting end to a lovely day.

Full disclosure

In all fairness, I realize that I tend towards sarcasm and hyperbole. As a result, I also realize that my friends are probably equally inclined to take everything I say with a grain of sale. (That's not a mistype. That's Italian for salt.) So in the spirit of full disclosure, I offer these two photographs.

First, the rainbow(s) that appeared in our little valley just as the rain came in earlier this afternoon.

Aw, pretty.

Sure. Then this is what came in behind the pretty rainbow. (Yes that is hail and ice....in Umbria in nearly June!!!

 

 

 

Cold but pretty

Yesterday, that being Friday, was predicted to be the best weather day of the week. That's a relative distinction, of course, but sunshine was the order of the day so we had the date earmarked for a drive out to the east of Spoleto on a loop to include Norcia which is the land of truffles and sausages (and you know how the British love their sausages). So we caught probably the best of the day at lunch in Norcia (certainly nice sausages and a lovely lemon fettuccini) and then carried on to the Piano Grande.

The Piano Grande is a huge plane in a vast valley in the snow-capped, Sibillini Mountains known for its stunning displays of wildflowers. Unfortunately we were a wee bit early or what with the summer weather being a wee bit late the mountains tops were clouded by, well, clouds and only a fraction of the flowers (mostly yellow ones) were beginning to bloom. (Even the red poppies that are abundant by the roadsides down below were nowhere to be seen.) But you still can't help but be struck by the grandeur.

So far we are still only getting snippets and brief windows of typically gorgeous Italian vistas, but on the way home we did catch a very nice view of our home base of Todi (with a bit of blue sky). Now that's what I'm talkin' about!

 

 
 
 



 

 





 

 





We went to Perugia and didn't even buy chocolate

But we did come home with a half of a dozen free bottles of coke thanks to some kids handing out promotional gift bags who were clearly not being paid by the hour but rather for emptying their truck as quickly as possible.

We drove up to Perugia on Thursday to have lunch with some friends of Robin and Faye's. The weather was still mostly overcast to raining but we tried to make the most of the day. We stopped in Deruta to look at some pottery on the way up and got a little lesson in the local style and a painting demonstration from a very nice chap.

Then we found our way to the recommended parking garage in Perugia no thanks at all to our Garmin that seems to be off living the dolce vita while we are here - abandoning us at the most inopportune moments. After a long hike up the hill stopping three times to ask for direction in Italian, we found our way to a coffee shop for a quick warm up and then on to the restaurant to be rewarded for our efforts with a really lovely lunch in a perfectly-perched, mercifully glass-enclosed restaurant looking out over the valley towards Assisi. A good time was had by all, and the weather cleared while we were eating so that our view and our spirits improved.

Unfortunately, the chocolate shop was closed when we emerged, and in that 'torno subito' way we had no idea when it might reopen. So we walked once around the square, accepted our cokes, and headed back down all of the steps to the car. It was so lovely at that time that we felt compelled to stop somewhere to get out in the sun so we went back to the actual centro storico of Deruta for a stroll. Tiny place, tiny stroll, but at least we soaked in some sun.

While hanging out here in Todi waiting for sunset I snapped this photo of the edge of the town. If Picasso and Dr. Seuss had ever worked together in construction, I think this might have been their style(s).

 

Where in the world are we? Part 2

If you look at the weather it is hard to believe that we are in Italy in late May. It is cold ( 12 or 14 or some such low number in centigrade), drizzling to raining, foggy to partly cloudy. And we are woefully underdressed. Where is the Italian sunshine? Where is that special brand of light that makes the stucco glow? Where is the warmth that draws you out at night to sit in the piazza or on a lovely terrace overlooking the valley?

While we are waiting for the sun, we're making new friends: at our local coffee shop (where the owner insisted that we taste a couple of digestifs - one made from artichokes) and at the gelateria (where I think Michael would live if he could). In general, everyone is quick to greet us with a giorno or a sera. And everyone is infinitely patient with my struggling attempts to speak Italian.

Tuesday we settled in, did shopping, took at nice stroll around town and ran over to Spoleto to pick up our English friends, Robin and Faye, who have joined us for a few days. Yesterday after it appeared that the heavy fog would lift, we ventured out to visit the nearby Roman ruins at Carsulae and managed, by sheer luck, to have the clearest skies and warmest weather so far as we strolled through the wildflowers exploring the site.

Then our plan was to go a little further to Narni (the inspiration for the Narnia of fictional fame) for a nice lunch and some exploration. On the way, however, the car started acting up. Well, in all fairness, it wasn't exactly right to start the day in as much as it wouldn't start. Some steering wheel lock issue or such (we thought). And then once it got going it was insistent that the boot was open when in fact it absolutely was not. But coming up to Narni Michael kept losing power (not a good thing under any circumstances but really distressing when driving up hill into a tiny Umbrian hill town!).

He managed to get it parked. (And as we struggled to find some coins a kindly Italian gentleman was nice enough to lean out of a fourth floor window to tell us that we didn't have to pay to park.) Off we went to find lunch and to call Hertz. Unfortunately the 800 number for roadside assistance can't be dialed from a foreign cellphone (very helpful). But again, helpful Italians came to our aid. The waitress dialed the number from the restaurant phone and a tow truck operator miraculously appeared. (most all of this in Italian)

We knew there was a Hertz office in Orvieto but after much discussion and many phone calls, he informed us that we could go to the office in Terni instead. So Faye and I sat in the cab of the truck with the driver and Michael and Robin rode in our rental car up on the flat bed. (In case you are wondering, no, non e permesso for passengers to ride in the car that is being towed. ) But off we went through the Umbrian hills as I tried to make polite conversation with the driver in Italian. I think his only daughter (no sons) is 32 years old and is traveling to Amsterdam for 4 days or has a 15 year old child herself or is an astronaut or all three; that it may or may not ever stop raining; and that Obama is a good man. Needless to say it was a long 15 minute trip.

Quite honestly, for having a broken down rental car, things were really going quite well at that point....until we arrived in Terni in the pouring rain, to find that the Hertz office there did not actually have a single car on site. So why did we go there? No idea. Then we had the option to pay the tow truck driver to take us to Orvieto after all or to take a cab for the same price. So we let Michael and Robin come down off of the flat bed and took a 120 euro cab ride (that they promised would be reimbursed to us when we return the car) to Orvieto where they still didn't have a car ready for us and insisted on charging us for the 1/8 tank of gas we had used before the car died.

Finally, 5 hours later we were back in Todi drinking Campari Spritz's on the balcony feeling a bit more sure that we are, indeed, in Italy.
 

Umbria

So this is the view off of our little balcony off of our little dining room in our little apartment in the little hill town of Todi in Perugia. This was late in the evening but I think one can get the general idea.

After waking this morning to the aroma of warm pastries wafting from the pasticceria across the street from our apartment in Venice and after partaking of said pastries, we hauled our bags through the early morning streets onto the water taxi and over to Hertz rental car. As we drove south to Umbria the sunny weather turned rainy until just outside of Perugia so that by the time we arrived into Todi a little after 3PM it was brisk but at least sunny.

The town is perfect. Every turn reveals a pretty door, a striking cornice, or a lovely alley way. And of course there's that view. We settled in at the apartment and then went off to settle in at a little café on the little Piazza del Popolo for munchies and Campari Spritz. Then we toddled over to the pizzeria only to find ourselves so full after just a creamy, white bean soup with pecorino cheese for me and an asparagus pasta for Michael that we took our mushroom and prosciutto pizza to go for lunch tomorrow.....partly because we knew we were stopping for fig and walnut gelato on our stroll home.

Now we are tired but content and looking forward to many, many days exploring this tiny little town and surrounds.

 

Good Friends

Yes, we are in Venice. Yesterday (Saturday) was a stellar day. Due cappuccini for breakfast sitting by a little canal. Due fette di pizza for lunch sitting on the Grand Canal. And sneaking photos of two young friends sitting by another tiny canal watching the gondolas pass by during the sunset rush as lovers hope to kiss under the Bridge of Sighs as the bells of St. Mark's Campanile toll.

Speaking of friends, we looked up an old one while we were here. I'm guessing that it's been 18 years or so since we were first (and last) in Venice. Back then a woman who owned a shop in La Jolla California told us to seek out a mask maker at the foot of the Rialto Bridge. That's how we met Sergio. I had practiced and practiced a detailed Italian introduction only to find out that Sergio was Oxford educated! Nonetheless, we bought two masks from him then that started the collection of masks from around the world that now line the beams around our living room.

Sergio is still here. So we reconnected and bought another mask. We chatted for a while and he insisted that we dine at his friend Giorgio's restaurant where his childhood friend, another Sergio, works. So off we went last night to Il Nuovo Galeon where all we got to say was 'our friend, Sergio "Mascera"' and we were off. Menus were whisked out of our hands, and my concerns about how much they were planning on feeding me were not so politely dismissed. Oh, and there was NO leaving food uneaten on our plates. They served us all of the classic Venetian fare. Food we would have never ordered in a million years (especially since Michael doesn't eat seafood). But he did, and he liked it.

The FIRST appetizer plate featured bay shrimp on artichokes, spider crab and cicada di mare (look up a picture of that one, seriously). Then we had a paste of salt cod, scallops on polenta, and cuttlefish in black ink sauce. The third course was scallops on the half shell in a spicy tomato sauce. That was followed by a wonderful fettuccini with shrimp and asparagus. We finished with fillet of sea bream. All topped off with a nice Chardonnay and followed by the requisite limoncello and cookies. A truly remarkable experience that will always be a wonderful memory.

Where in the world are we?

Hint: Not Las Vegas