It's hot out there.

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Is it time to eat?

Arrived yesterday at Cheetah Conservation Fund headquarters. Beautiful quarters but there were some mixups. Nonetheless a nice experience in a special spot. Ask Georgia if you can smell her hands. Not sure the smell of donkey heads will ever leave.
If travel teaches you one thing it is that this is a very small world. Met a young lady who just returned from the Cook Islands where she volunteered at the same veterinary facility our friend, Merry, worked at some years back. Then had dinner with a French veterinary geneticist from Belgium who actually worked for someone we know in Marigot, St Martin.
Just shows to go you six degrees of separation or often times less.
Getting ready to depart for Windhoek tomorrow.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

I've been seeing spots...

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

A different kind of drinking problem

Giraffe Cirque de Soleil
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

SUCCESS

It's after 11PM and we are just heading to bed. We spent over four hours at the illuminated watering hole tonight. Very cool. Everything feels different at night. Animals just materialize on the periphery. They all seem to move more cautiously. Some zebra returned as did the family of 17 elephants we saw earlier today and the huge bull elephant , too. Even giraffe came and went a couple of times. But most importantly we saw THE BLACK RHINOs! Six of them!
Well, in all honesty it was undoubtedly the same three twice but we can't say that for certain now can we?
A male came first. Then the female later with a teeny baby. Much later mom and baby returned but they all stayed on the other side of the hole so photographs didn't turn out. And finally the male came back and came over to our side at which point we had put the camera in our room so still no photos Lest you think we are lying, however, my little video camera did an awesome job all things considered so I do have proof. I just don't have the iLink cable with me to transfer the images.
Anyway, going to sleep now content and happy. Georgia
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Are vertical stripes slimming?

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Aren't they gorgeous?

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Lucky lucky morning

First of all apologies when the order of photos and emails get out of whack. Our service here in the park is very intermittent and not so good for photos.
Last night at Etosha Safari Camp. Kitchy but OK. Very bad musical duo singing some reggae (No Woman No Cry), a little nostalgia (My Bonnie Lies over the Ocean) and the African classic, The Lion Sleeps Tonight.
This morning got delayed checking out due to credit card connectivity but it turned out for the best. As it was we just passed the camp inside the park when we both saw something big and yellow in the yellow grass a couple hundred yards off the road. LIONS. A male and a female coming our way. Only us and one other car there for a while. He was roaring and they were both scanning the horizon as a second male passed beyond them keeping a good distance.
The pair stood and sat and turned and posed for quite some time before crossing the road in front of us and then circling back behind to ultimately head off in the direction from which they originally appeared. Gorgeous.
The rest of the morning has been understandably somewhat anticlimatic. There was something in the air because five jackals were frolicking, the springbuck were springing around all over the place and even a lone wildebeest was prancing and bucking for no apparent reason. But still they were just jackals, springbucks and wildebeest. No black rhino.
So we toured around and around until we came to a good watering hole to sit for lunch and to hope for something stunning. Lots and lots of animals: kudu, impala (our first here), oryx, hartebeest, zebra, quinea hen and our first warthog here. Very interesting dance as they all cautiously took their turns but alas nothing but us here looking for lunch :-)
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Can't we all get along?

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

african sunset. jpg

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Can't we all get along?

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Best Thanksgiving ever!

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Waiting at the watering hole

Left Otjiwarongo this morning. Driving through Outjo we stopped to photograph some Himba women in town.
Now we are in Etosha. Lots of animals. Large herds of zebra and springbok. Many wildebeest. A couple elephants and some mongoose on our way to find a waterhole that isn't dry as a bone.
Finally we arrived at a wet watering hole at Homob. Lots of the same: zebra, wildebeest and springbok but also three giraffe lined up drinking. Then we watched as first one kudu came cautiously over the ridge, paused and then six more joined him as they veeeery sloooooowly approached the water. Now even the ostrich appears to be making an approach, too.
Just waiting on a black rhino to show.....
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

On the road again

After an early breakfast, we left Sossusvlei. Hadn't gone far when flagged down by an old German man in his Mercedes Kompressor. Seemed some warning light had come on and he was panicked. After 20 minutes of reading manuals and computerized digital dash displays, we managed to reset his tyre pressure alert. Still wouldn't start until we realized he had left it in drive. Got them started and with a pledge that he 'would never forget us', we headed on in our not-so-scientific, not-so-luxurious Toyota Yaris where Michael can barely raise his arm without rolling down the window.
Drove for 6 hours before stopping in Okahandja where we heard there was a good crafts market. As luck and logic would have it, it was right across the street from the Shell station. A very big market with about 100 shops all offering virtually the same items - supposedly hand crafted by all their relatives in Rundu near the Caprivi Strip. Coincidentally located across the border from Zambia where we last purchased similar items. Everybody in Zambia and Zimbabwe must be carvers. Trees must be getting close to extinct at this rate.
Michael still had a great time shopping. He really enjoys bargaining and Georgia gets to play pack mule. Luckily limited packing space provides some much-needed control over the purchases as Michael was about to buy a life-sized giraffe!
So one minute you are 'writing' offers and counter offers on vendors' arms with porcupine quills and the next minute you are drinking Coke Zero and sending emails from the Blackberry on the highway. Pretty surreal.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Dunes

Spent part of day in dunes walking. No we didn't climb one!
Added wildebeest and springbok to our culinary spectrum. Excellent!
Leave in the AM for 11 hour drive to Etosha.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

more red.jpg

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

last day dunes.jpg

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Warthog - the other white meat!

Who would have thunk it? Buffet dinner here at the Sossusvlei Lodge just outside the park. Could have had beef or lamb or chicken or stirfry but they had game. All kinds. So we tried from E to Z: eland, impala, oryx, warthog and zebra.
Michael nearly ate an entire dazzle of zebra. It was as good as any beef he's ever had. Warthog is surprisingly fantastic. Oryx has the strongest taste but is still very good. Eland and impala were Georgia's favorites - unbelievably tender.
Heard the jackals crying nearby. Apparently sometimes they get so hungry they jump the wall at the grilling station, and we can't say that we'd blame them if they did.
Looking forward to tomorrow's buffet.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

This is Namibia

In spite of bad light under overcast skies....it's still magnificent. Can't wait for tomorrow.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

For the Birds

See the little weaver nests at the top of the tree? They are impressive in and of themselves. But how about the huge colony weaver nest at the bottom? You gotta give those little buggers credit.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Oh, there she is!

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Now you see her. Now you don't.

Left Welgevonden early am for the airport in Joberg. These photos were from our last drive. Day before yesterday saw the Big 6 in one day. Doesn't get much better viewing than that.
Now in Windhoek...a real city. Went to dinner at Joe's Beer House and had Kudu and Eland sirloin steaks. Very good and all for under 33 including beer and tip. Think I should buy a Kudu!
Staying at Puccini house...a backpackers' hostel. Just a night of reality before we head to Sossusvlei in the dunes for two nights.
Having a great trip!
Mike and Georgia
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

JNB-WDH

Well here we are at JNB airport sitting in the British Airways Galleries lounge having cheese and crackers and wine waiting for our flight to Namibia. Thank heavens for Michael's executive platinum status that gets us into such places. It is the only way to travel.
We are really looking forward to seeing Namibia, but cannot leave South Africa without a few last comments about our stay here. Last night's game drive started out comfortably warm but as boring as seeing 4-5 zebras again and again can be after days of game drives. Then as the sun was going down and it was just getting chilly again and we were getting a bit frustrated, what shows up right by the side of the road but a young female leopard (pictures to follow) clearly intent on something in the grass on the opposite side of the road. So she sat there staring across right in front of us forever.
We were apparently really spoiled at Sabi Sabi last year where the leopards are, by all accounts, very habituated to the vehicles and where we had wild dogs conveniently treeing the leopards for our viewing please. It seems that in the rest of the world, leopard sightings are usually so brief (more like the other day) that rangers hardly ever call them in because the cat will undoubtedly be gone by the time anyone else gets there. I swear that for me watching a leopard is every bit as mesmerizing as sitting in the Cistine Chapel or staring at the David. I could have stayed for hours, but we had to be polite eventually and move on for others to get a chance to see her. But she gave us a fabulous last drive in Welgevonden.
Last night turkey dinner in honor of Jon Dill's birthday today. Reluctant goodbyes to friends, new and old. And then an early departure via transport to JNB this morning.
Always sad to leave but always sad to arrive someplace new. More later.

Last day in South Africa

Michael is off with the group right now buying packing tape and such to bundle up his latest purchases for travel tomorrow.
I am staying here at the Lodge for a couple hours of "me" time doing laundry and organizing things for packing.
The good news is that the sun seems to be coming out. The last day and a half have been very cold out on the game drives so it will be nice if this evening's foray could be a bit more pleasant and provide a little more viewing. Last night we did have a rhino "nudge" the car, and came across our two male lions again. And this morning we had to cut our coffee break short because the hippos were coming across the pond towards us. But it would be nice to find the lion cubs or another leopard this evening. Hopefully they will as desperate as we are to enjoy the warmth.
Tomorrow morning off early to JNB to fly to Windhoek, Namibia.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Way to go Melody

Headed back to the lodge looking forward to shelter, warmth and coffee, we were all chatting while Melody, bless her heart, was still scouring the hillsides looking for animals. And what to her wandering eyes should appear but a leopard, yes a leopard, sprawled out on a rock 100 yards or more away. Amazing. Even more amazing because it elected to come down off the rock, through the grass and down and across the road right in front of us. Stunning. So a great drive after all.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

cheetah

We were out this morning on a cold, overcast and blustery day getting a little frustrated with the fact that the animals were apparently not interested in braving the elements to make our acquaintance when we got word of a cheetah with a kill just a ways south of us.
So we high-tailed it on down there hoping to see her before some larger predator stole it from her. She had dragged the antelope a little ways away near a bush so that when she'd lay down we couldn't hardly see her. But when she'd pop up to survey her surroundings, she was beautiful. There are only three cheetahs known to be in the park so we feel very fortunate.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Here's an easy one.

For those of you who didn't correctly identify the mystery animal from our night drive as a spotted hyena in pitch blackness, this is an easy one.
We've seen lots of elephants here - in small groups and in large groups. Nursing babies and jousting males alike.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Still on safari

Day three at Hlegamanzi in Welgevonden. Had two very long game drives yesterday and ate out on the plains for dinner not getting home until 11:30PM last night. Off again at 6:30AM. Back for breakfast then immediately into town for shopping: two masks, one serving spoon, one wire and beaded lion, one spear and some little things. Back for lunch and just now stealing a few moments to write.
The Lodge is stunning. The area is spectacular. The food is good and plentiful. And Jon and Melody are gracious hosts.
Altogether having a great few days here.
More later. Gotta go search for leopards.

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Simba.jpg

Howdy from Welgevonden.
Arrived yesterday afternoon and have been on two game drives and eaten about 6 times.
Seen a lot of animals already. This lion was about 6ft away as I snapped away.
Heading out again.

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Name this animal

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Dr. Livingstone, I presume

Day 7: Looking for the source of the Nile.
After a nice bkfst drove to kigali airport. Bid our guide fairwell. Surprisingly nice airport. Had a lot of time to kill and talked to a woman who was from Congo. She too is amazed at the forgiveness that is accomplishing a lot.
Hutus now marry Tutsies and all refs to tribe have been removed from passports, drivers licenses etc. Really amazing.
Took off for Joburg then turned around and landed so they could fix a door that wasn't closing. Began to worry about delay but only 5 min on ground.
Amazing how well the rest of the world can run an airline better than American companies. Excellent service and clean modern planes.
Landed in Joburg and checked in to our hotel.
LOTS of hot water!

On to the lodge in the morning.
Enjoy the photos
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

the face.jpg

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

the baby.jpg

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Lost Shorty today

Day two of the Battan Death March. Climbing, climbing, always climbing - ever upwards. Falling, falling, always falling - ever downwards.
The head honcho presumably placed us in an "easy" group today with 5 young, able-bodied professional trekkers who have been in Africa for one month.
After the 45 min back-breaking car ride over boulders the size of basketballs, we began in a village of small mud huts adjacent to potato fields and goats. Near panic set in when we realised they deceived us by bringing us via a different route to the same place from where we started yesterday. Could it be that they expected us to survive the unsurvivable again? Was Michael's enemy waiting for a second chance with him?
Michael began to weep.
Blinded by his tears, he managed to stumble for 45 minutes through terraced potato fields to the trail head - mercifully, we hoped, to a different trail head.
After crossing the apparently requisite narrow, slippery, log bridge, we began the climb. Imagine if you will a narrow, 12 inch wide staircase ascending over 500 meters through thicket and thinnet. Now imagine it without a single step - essentially a long, steep ramp interspersed with logs, roots and boulders sometimes thigh-high. And coated with a thin layer of sawdust. Now you've got the picture. Oh and did we mention this was at 10,000 feet where oxygen is more scarce than gorillas?
At the end of the ascent we could look DOWN into a small valley where the gorillas decided to spend the day. Everywhere were stinging nettles. By now Michael was sobbing like a girl. We spent the next 15 minutes sliding (Michael literally on his ass) down the other side of the hill.
The next hour was spent watching a bigger Silver back and his family with three babies - the youngest three months old. Michael maintained a defensive Karate stance to keep the gorilla at bay. It was all I could do to keep Michael from thumping his chest.
At least the return trip did not include going back up to the top. We managed to rejoin the original path (staircase sans stairs) by traversing the valley sideways. Then all we had to do was work our way all the way back DOWN (looking forward to losing our big toenails), across the log bridge, back through the potato fields saying so long to the goats and into the waiting arms of our driver who dragged us again across the bumpy road laughing about the free massage we were getting.
Sounds like fun, doesn't it? Well actually it was. Glad we did it. And recommend it highly. Pictures to follow. Off to Johannesburg tomorrow.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

You don't need to bow

Probably in recognition with my combat with the gorilla, I was crowned king of Rwanda. And owing to the scarcity of women, I invited Georgia to be my queen. Come visit our kingdom sometime.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Silverback

This was the second silverback in an unusual setting with two silverback males in one family. This one seemed pretty benign. Watched him eat and grunt for quite a while.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Here he comes!

OMG what a day! The most challenging hike I have personally ever taken. Met up with Amahoro family (means peace) after two hour hike through ungodly mountainous jungle. I am sure I will recover in time. Meet gahinga in this photo - a strapping , young black back who from the photo you can see is cocking his right hand to knock me backwards to the ground. Think he was venting his spleen towards one of the babies on me. Or on the other hand he may have been threatened by my obvious power. No matter - he pounded his chest, charged and knocked me to the ground. Rolled one of the trackers downhill. Unfortunately this was the least painful part of the day. Mike
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

In Kigali

First night at a little hotel with little soaps but hot water! Picked up our gorilla permits. That only took one hour. Apparently planning 11 months in advance made it harder for them - not easier.
Visited the genocide memorial museum. Very powerful. Our guides family was killed (he was out of the country) and his father and younger brother were identified and buried there.
Then two hour drive up to the mountains. Beautiful countryside even though overcast and still drizzly. Just had lunch and are now going to see the Twin Lakes.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Rwanda

Well after delayed flights and tight connections we got here. Unfortunately one bag didn't make it. Fortunately we packed everything we need in carry ons. Checked in to our hotel. Met with our guide. Was raining when we landed...could be a muddy trek.
Stay tuned.

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Rejoice with us for we have found a camera!

Yes, Michael found a camera. I know nothing. I want to know nothing. But we have a camera. So we celebrated 2 hours later with drinks in the bar here at the Ritz. Drinks which are, surprisingly, cheaper than drinks at Cap Juluca in Anguilla. And then we had a lovely dinner at the Denny's around the corner. Yup, that's us…even when we stay at the Ritz, we dine at Denny's. Want to join us for a Grand Slam for breakfast?

 

Seriously, now, do not despair. The blogs should get a lot more interesting after this. After all, in a little over 36 hours we are in the mountains in the Land of a Thousand Hills. That will be even better than the Ritz.

As far as San Juan

Well, not everything goes smoothly. But I guess everything happens for a reason. First of all, sorry to be misleading. There are no issues with our actual travel, yet. We were only supposed to get as far as San Juan today. The problem is that we sprung for the Ritz Carlton overnight with visions of sipping drinks by the pool eagerly anticipating our travels but I am here in the room and Michael is at Best Buy.
Luckily, and this is the everything happens for a reason part, he got a hankering to take some photos of me down on the beach last night. And had it not been for that, he might not have realized that his fancy Nikon camera was malfunctioning until we were in Rwanda trying to get that perfrect gorilla picture. This way he knew last night. Still not a lot of help since Nikon phone support couldn't solve the problem but at least we had the layover here in Puerto Rico and some hope of getting a new camera body tonight. (There would have been NO chance of that happening had we been leaving straight through from Anguilla to Africa.) Even so I'd be feeling much more comfortable if our bazillion calls to Costco, Walmart, and Best Buy and even a professional photographer in San Juan last night and this morning had been more positively informative, but we are hoping that some of the issue was lost in translation and that in person Michael will be more successful in finding what he needs.
Fingers crossed.

What are the odds?

Here we are having drinks down by the beach and talking about how in one week we will be sleeping in the mountains of Rwanda with visions of gorillas dancing in our heads and what do we find on cnn.com tonight but a video about……yes…..gorilla trekking in Rwanda.

 

http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/world/2009/09/06/mckenzie.rwanda.gorilla.cnn