And here's someone you all know in he picture with the shark. Yup, that's Michael swimming towards me. Just as proof that he did, in fact, get in really, really deep water with something really, really big.
Good times.
Sunday, November 6, 2011
Just a couple more
Just to finish this out. Here is a side perspective of the whale shark with a couple of strangers as points of reference.
Good times.
Good times.
Dropped right on top of the whale shark
This is a slow motion (1/4 time) video of the second drop. I was trying to swim from the boat toward the other people already in the water unaware that the shark was between them and me until the guide told me to look down. Apologies for the splashing. The camera is strapped to my left wrist so whem I am swimming (or scrambling to move away from the shark) the camera flails in and out of the water along with my arms.
And just for good measure, here are some still images captures from that video. I don't even know if I saw it at this point or if my wrist was just in the water.
I DO KNOW I saw it at this point. (That is my own hand in the picture.)
I wish I had had the presence of mind to just float and let it slide under me but natural instincts or panic (depending on how you look at it) took over and I scrambled to get away. Even so I guess I wasn't really fast enough given the next image.
I asked someone at the dive shop later if it would have avoided me. For better or worse she said that sometimes they are just so much in the 'zone' eating that could have bumped into me (slammed into me, more likely) before it realized I was there.
Whale Shark
OK, here's a link to a brief video of part of our first whale shark encounter. (We had two encounters with the same shark. They drop you in. You try to keep up. When you give up, the boat picks you up and drops you in front of it again.)
Please note that this camera has a fish eye lens to the shark was closer than it appears in the video. TRUST ME.
Please note that this camera has a fish eye lens to the shark was closer than it appears in the video. TRUST ME.
Friday, November 4, 2011
On second thought
Maybe I'll post one more mention.
As a point of reference, we packed really lightly for this trip. Ask anyone traveling with us who had to see us over and over again in the same three outfits.
That intent along with our complete ignorance of the ever-changing seasons in the rest of the world resulted in my arriving at Heathrow in my comfy, negligee-esque, halter maxi-dress in the bold, giraffe print. Then while wearing said attire I had to catch the limo to Gatwick and transfer between terminals there moving in and out of the chill and rain with crowds of sad Brits bundled up in boots and woolens in all shades of gray and black rather like a naturally camouflaged kudu suddenly set against a black backdrop. But the fellow working here at the BA airport lounge told me how lovely and trendy and cheery my dress is. So without predators I guess it's ok to stand out.
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As a point of reference, we packed really lightly for this trip. Ask anyone traveling with us who had to see us over and over again in the same three outfits.
That intent along with our complete ignorance of the ever-changing seasons in the rest of the world resulted in my arriving at Heathrow in my comfy, negligee-esque, halter maxi-dress in the bold, giraffe print. Then while wearing said attire I had to catch the limo to Gatwick and transfer between terminals there moving in and out of the chill and rain with crowds of sad Brits bundled up in boots and woolens in all shades of gray and black rather like a naturally camouflaged kudu suddenly set against a black backdrop. But the fellow working here at the BA airport lounge told me how lovely and trendy and cheery my dress is. So without predators I guess it's ok to stand out.
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Thursday, November 3, 2011
Sitting in INH
The airport in Inhambane, Mozambique in the bar (I.e. At the plastic tables next to the tarmac.) Drinking my final 2-M beer while Georgia downloads photos from the camera.
Today was spectacular as far as weather goes. Perfect temperature. Bright blue skies. Sunny with a refreshing cool breeze. Of course we are leaving. At least we aren't heading to Wisconsin or London :-)
Will post a beach picture and a local fishing boat picture and then that will be it until we can capture stills and/or edit whale shark videos.
Until then, happy trails.
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Today was spectacular as far as weather goes. Perfect temperature. Bright blue skies. Sunny with a refreshing cool breeze. Of course we are leaving. At least we aren't heading to Wisconsin or London :-)
Will post a beach picture and a local fishing boat picture and then that will be it until we can capture stills and/or edit whale shark videos.
Until then, happy trails.
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Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Mozambique
Yesterday stayed pretty miserable. More Mexican train. Then dinner with live music - a guitarist who played everthing from Elvis and the Beatles to the Animals and what must have been local songs.
This morning's walk on the beach revealed some really colorful if teeny shells and three sets of turtle tracks. A local boy tried to sell us a beautiful lobster that was a brilliant rainbow of colors and so big its tail had to be folded underneath to fit it into the ice chest.
The weather appears to be clearing but not fast enough for me to squeeze in another ocean safari before we leave tomorrow.
So for today we'll just head over to another resort for lunch just for a change of pace.
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Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Dreary in Mozambique
Well, a greater power made the decision whether I would take another run at whale shark chasing. The rain came in overnight and it has been on and off drizzling and on and on dark, damp and cold. The Ocean Safari was cancelled.
Melody and Jon jumped into a sucker hole and went diving but tales of rough seas on and off the boat (you don't really want to know the procedure for vomiting 15 ft below the surface) make one glad to have stayed home drinking wine and playing Mexican Train.
Now, what to do with the rest of the day....
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Melody and Jon jumped into a sucker hole and went diving but tales of rough seas on and off the boat (you don't really want to know the procedure for vomiting 15 ft below the surface) make one glad to have stayed home drinking wine and playing Mexican Train.
Now, what to do with the rest of the day....
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Monday, October 31, 2011
Yes we did see a whale shark!
I have been trying to capture a still image from the video to post but the camera is new and my software is old so the file type is incompatible. So eventually but not today.
Meanwhile, off we went in the zodiac boat on what was, mercifully, a relatively windfree and calm day. We stopped twice for small schools of bottlenose dolphins and I made the mistake of dropping into the water twice to try to see them and twice they ran away leaving me to have to haul myself (with help) back into the stupid boat.
Then we found the whale shark. So 16 people slide off the boat in front of it only to find that they have positioned us 'perfectly' in as much as the shark is running right at us. I scrambled just to get out of its way and then rushed to keep up with it. And just for the record they do NOT swim all that slowly. I was paddling my little heart out while trying all the while to keep my left wrist (with attached video camera) pointed at him.
I kept up as long as I could and then had to stop and wait for the boat to pick me up, gather other folks, and then drop us in again.
The second time I was not one of the first in the water so once I entered I started swimming to where they all were. It turn out the shark was by then ahead of them coming towards the boat so the guide hollered at me to look down. Crap! He was right under me. So more panic, more flailing and then I had to catch up to him again where he started swimming in circles so that everyone was trying to keep away from him and ended up running into each other instead.
So you are probably wondering where Michael was during all of this. Well for the most part I had absolutely no idea. In spite of my initial good intentions to stick with him, it was pretty much every man for himself down there. Miraculously, though, I did end up with video of Michael swimming towards me with the whale shark behind him. (Hence the need to be able to edit the video)
So when it was all over (including seeing two lazy humpback whales who ought not to still be around these parts) we were exhausted, nauseous, and absolutely covered with jellyfish stings (including one that smacked a tentacle across my upper lip); but we were victorious.
Pretty amazing.
Michael, Robin and Faye are content to check that experience off of their bucket lists. I may go again tomorrow just to see if I could relax and enjoy 'being in the moment' with a second pass. We'll see.
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Meanwhile, off we went in the zodiac boat on what was, mercifully, a relatively windfree and calm day. We stopped twice for small schools of bottlenose dolphins and I made the mistake of dropping into the water twice to try to see them and twice they ran away leaving me to have to haul myself (with help) back into the stupid boat.
Then we found the whale shark. So 16 people slide off the boat in front of it only to find that they have positioned us 'perfectly' in as much as the shark is running right at us. I scrambled just to get out of its way and then rushed to keep up with it. And just for the record they do NOT swim all that slowly. I was paddling my little heart out while trying all the while to keep my left wrist (with attached video camera) pointed at him.
I kept up as long as I could and then had to stop and wait for the boat to pick me up, gather other folks, and then drop us in again.
The second time I was not one of the first in the water so once I entered I started swimming to where they all were. It turn out the shark was by then ahead of them coming towards the boat so the guide hollered at me to look down. Crap! He was right under me. So more panic, more flailing and then I had to catch up to him again where he started swimming in circles so that everyone was trying to keep away from him and ended up running into each other instead.
So you are probably wondering where Michael was during all of this. Well for the most part I had absolutely no idea. In spite of my initial good intentions to stick with him, it was pretty much every man for himself down there. Miraculously, though, I did end up with video of Michael swimming towards me with the whale shark behind him. (Hence the need to be able to edit the video)
So when it was all over (including seeing two lazy humpback whales who ought not to still be around these parts) we were exhausted, nauseous, and absolutely covered with jellyfish stings (including one that smacked a tentacle across my upper lip); but we were victorious.
Pretty amazing.
Michael, Robin and Faye are content to check that experience off of their bucket lists. I may go again tomorrow just to see if I could relax and enjoy 'being in the moment' with a second pass. We'll see.
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Today we hunt for whale sharks
Yesterday we traveled from the Reserve to the airport and then flew to Mozambique. Why is it that the rest of the world feeds you on a 70 minute flight while in America you could starve going from NY to SF?
The immigration process in Inhambane was crazy, however. The forms were not handed out on the plane so suddenly 75 people are jammed into one small room filling them out and then trying to form ONE line through the crowd to get to the ONE guy working the desk with three different groups of people: those who didn't need Visas, those who got them ahead of time and the 10 or so of us who had to get them upon arrival.
Anyway, made it here to the resort. This is a simple, modest place but high-end for the area.
The beach is huge and the sand is so soft that it compresses under your feet with a squeaky crunchy feeling like walking in cornstarch.
Our first ocean safari is at 10:30. (Which is a nice change from 6a game drives) so 2 hours out in a zodiac in search of whale sharks (and dolphin and mantas and humpbacks but really whale sharks).
Fingers crossed.
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The immigration process in Inhambane was crazy, however. The forms were not handed out on the plane so suddenly 75 people are jammed into one small room filling them out and then trying to form ONE line through the crowd to get to the ONE guy working the desk with three different groups of people: those who didn't need Visas, those who got them ahead of time and the 10 or so of us who had to get them upon arrival.
Anyway, made it here to the resort. This is a simple, modest place but high-end for the area.
The beach is huge and the sand is so soft that it compresses under your feet with a squeaky crunchy feeling like walking in cornstarch.
Our first ocean safari is at 10:30. (Which is a nice change from 6a game drives) so 2 hours out in a zodiac in search of whale sharks (and dolphin and mantas and humpbacks but really whale sharks).
Fingers crossed.
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Saturday, October 29, 2011
Last day in South Africa
Tomorrow morning we leave bright and early to head to Mozambique in search of the whale sharks.
Only one game drive today with the usual suspects. We will leave this time not having seen a leopard in the wild. We are obviously getting jaded because we've always had multiple sightings in shorter stays in the past. Then again we were flush with cheetahs sightings this time. And we had a great time hanging here with friends in Welgevonden.
Plus we can now attest to the fact that when it rains and the frogs come out on the road and the vehicle rolls over them in the dark it sounds rather like bubble wrap popping.
There's always something to learn.
Only one game drive today with the usual suspects. We will leave this time not having seen a leopard in the wild. We are obviously getting jaded because we've always had multiple sightings in shorter stays in the past. Then again we were flush with cheetahs sightings this time. And we had a great time hanging here with friends in Welgevonden.
Plus we can now attest to the fact that when it rains and the frogs come out on the road and the vehicle rolls over them in the dark it sounds rather like bubble wrap popping.
There's always something to learn.
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And a story
First thing yesterday we headed back to the lions assuming they would still be finishing off their wildebeest kill. The night before I had asked Jarine, the ranger, whether - looking rather full already - the lions would wait until they were really hungry again to kill again. She said that for now they would just stay with this kill and would only kill again if something was stupid enough to walk right in front of them.
Imagine our surprise then when we arrived at the site to find the wildebeest carcass abandoned and the lioness with one of the cubs gnawing away at a new carcass under a bush not 15 yards away from the first while the rest of the pride were nearly comatose under another tree!
Apparently, said second wildebeest had been stupid enough to walk right in front of them!
So there the lions slept all maximally engorged and stuporous like a bunch or Americans on Thanksgiving. I went through the pictures looking for comparison shots but they never stood up to show off their waistlines.
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Imagine our surprise then when we arrived at the site to find the wildebeest carcass abandoned and the lioness with one of the cubs gnawing away at a new carcass under a bush not 15 yards away from the first while the rest of the pride were nearly comatose under another tree!
Apparently, said second wildebeest had been stupid enough to walk right in front of them!
So there the lions slept all maximally engorged and stuporous like a bunch or Americans on Thanksgiving. I went through the pictures looking for comparison shots but they never stood up to show off their waistlines.
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Thursday, October 27, 2011
More rain on the plains
Our day was a lot like in soccer where 'something amazing almost happened'.
First of all, we went to a local zoo of sorts this morning. Not because we really wanted to see lions and leopards in cages (since that's really counter to the whole safari mentality) but mostly because they breed tigers and Jarine, our ranger now, spoke glowingly of their two bengal tiger cubs. They socialize their animals so we could pick up the cubs and hold them which is not something you get to do every day. So we took a break and drove over there. And the 'kittens' were cute and we got to pet leopards. Then in the afternoon when Jarine came for the game drive she told us that the lion pride we've been seeing was found feeding on a kill this morning (see why I NEVER skip a game drive!). It was a wildebeest , though, so they were still working on it. We would head over there to see them. On the way, however, we were going to be in for a treat. Her husband (who works on the reserve) was getting us front row seats, so to speak, for a rhino exam. A female rhino had brushed aside the attentions of a male rhino and been gored (not uncommon) so they were bringing in a helicopter and a vet to chase her to a clearing and dart her so they could assess her wounds. Pretty exciting opportunity made even more so by the fact that another thunderstorm was blowing in.
So off we went to Fig tree plain. Minutes later the helicopter arrived (a la M.A.S.H.), landed, tossed off its doors, took on an official, and took off flying around while four vehicles chased around in the blustery wind hoping to have a rhino barrelling towards us. But the vet decided that the rhino was not sufficiently injured to require medical attention so that was that. Good for the rhino. A bit of a let down for us.
But we were off to see the lions as the storm hit (now a la 'Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer and the big blizzard that hit Christmas Town). The wind was whipping, lightning was crashing around us - vertically, horizontally, diagonally, everywhere) while we were bouncing in the open vehicle with our rain ponchos flapping. It was quite exciting. And the lions were just sitting in the rain fat and as happy as they could be under the circumstances. The cubs were gnawing on wildebeest bones and frolicking around and you couldn't help but be happy for them being happy. No pictures turned out cause it was too dark and raining but a great experience nonetheless.
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First of all, we went to a local zoo of sorts this morning. Not because we really wanted to see lions and leopards in cages (since that's really counter to the whole safari mentality) but mostly because they breed tigers and Jarine, our ranger now, spoke glowingly of their two bengal tiger cubs. They socialize their animals so we could pick up the cubs and hold them which is not something you get to do every day. So we took a break and drove over there. And the 'kittens' were cute and we got to pet leopards. Then in the afternoon when Jarine came for the game drive she told us that the lion pride we've been seeing was found feeding on a kill this morning (see why I NEVER skip a game drive!). It was a wildebeest , though, so they were still working on it. We would head over there to see them. On the way, however, we were going to be in for a treat. Her husband (who works on the reserve) was getting us front row seats, so to speak, for a rhino exam. A female rhino had brushed aside the attentions of a male rhino and been gored (not uncommon) so they were bringing in a helicopter and a vet to chase her to a clearing and dart her so they could assess her wounds. Pretty exciting opportunity made even more so by the fact that another thunderstorm was blowing in.
So off we went to Fig tree plain. Minutes later the helicopter arrived (a la M.A.S.H.), landed, tossed off its doors, took on an official, and took off flying around while four vehicles chased around in the blustery wind hoping to have a rhino barrelling towards us. But the vet decided that the rhino was not sufficiently injured to require medical attention so that was that. Good for the rhino. A bit of a let down for us.
But we were off to see the lions as the storm hit (now a la 'Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer and the big blizzard that hit Christmas Town). The wind was whipping, lightning was crashing around us - vertically, horizontally, diagonally, everywhere) while we were bouncing in the open vehicle with our rain ponchos flapping. It was quite exciting. And the lions were just sitting in the rain fat and as happy as they could be under the circumstances. The cubs were gnawing on wildebeest bones and frolicking around and you couldn't help but be happy for them being happy. No pictures turned out cause it was too dark and raining but a great experience nonetheless.
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And a tiny creature
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Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Here is today's giraffe
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Boys night out
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Tuesday, October 25, 2011
And finally
The prey didn't leave but remained pointing at the resting lions apparently subscribing to the theory that a known evil is better than one in an unknown location.
Good times.
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In the new category
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Get ready
To start, this is the elephant sleeping below our balcony today.
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Monday, October 24, 2011
A study in heads
The waterbuck was in the reeds down by the river where he should be. The hippos were in the lake where they should be. But those three crazy cheetahs were cooling off in a trench under a tree on fig tree plane while warthogs milled all around completely unimpressed. (There is a pile of dung between the warthog and the cheetah heads, but those three equally spaced blobs in the forefront are the cheetahs' heads!)
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Sunday, October 23, 2011
Slow days in the veld
Only mentioning new and different sightings, last night we saw two black-backed jackals and a little zebra maybe 2 or 3 days old.
The big elephant photo to follow was at the bottom of our driveway when we got home. And the pygmy kingfisher (also to follow) was spotted this morning.
We tried twice to see a hyena that was intermittently feeding off of an old rhino carcass but missed him both times.
Robin and Faye slept in this morning and got to see five elephants walk down the hill to visit the river in the valley below the lodge.
Hoping things pick up but it's still gorgeous weather, lovely driving, great food and tremendous fun.
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Saturday, October 22, 2011
And our three cheetah friends
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The elusive cape buffalo
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Friday, October 21, 2011
African Siesta
Stellar weather again. Lots of sightings along the way including a nursing rhino with the most pathetic little cry for such a big baby. Hopefully I got some video of it before my battery died.
Meanwhile, we found the elephants who were also quite obliging and walked across/along the road with us. And one stopped right beside us (well as close as you'd want an elephant beside you) to uncover some tuber root, break it in two with his foot and then only eat half of it so I suppose it wasn't that tasty after all.
Lovely light lunch out on the planes and then passed these two rhinos getting a bit of rest on our way back to do just the same.
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Ask and ye shall receive
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Wednesday, October 19, 2011
15 hours in Madrid
We are taking the leisurely route from Anguilla to Welgevonden Game Reserve. At least that is how we try to see it. For some of you this kind of travel only reinforces your conviction to stay home. But we do it coz free tickets don't typically allow for the most expeditious of itineraries.
Monday we took the ferry to SXM and then the plane to Miami. Spent the next 20 hours at the embassy suites before flying overnight COACH (clutch the pearls) to Madrid. Slept fitfully at best.
Arrived about 10A. Cleared immigration and customs. Stored our bags in the lockers. And then took the metro into Madrid. Just to get some fresh air and to stretch our legs. Recognized the area from our last trip here. Found our way easily. Saw a procession through the plaza (several different groups of horsemen, limos and a Cinderella like carriage went back and forth and back and forth. ) Cappuccino and jamon/queso bocadillos and a nice stroll and we were back here at the airport by 3P.
Bags, check in, immigration and to the Iberia VIP lounge. Nice enough lounge. Tried to take a nap in their beds but it's probably just as well we couldn't sleep right now. So showered and changed back into my new, perfect-for-overnight flights maxi dress and now just hanging.
Midnight departure (business class, thank you very much) will get us to JNB around 10A to meet up with Robin and Faye for the 3-1/2 hour transport to Welgevonden - likely just in time to dash out for a game drive.
It's a small-er world than it used to be but it's still not blink-of-an-eye travel. Nevertheless, next update from under the Southern Cross.
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Monday we took the ferry to SXM and then the plane to Miami. Spent the next 20 hours at the embassy suites before flying overnight COACH (clutch the pearls) to Madrid. Slept fitfully at best.
Arrived about 10A. Cleared immigration and customs. Stored our bags in the lockers. And then took the metro into Madrid. Just to get some fresh air and to stretch our legs. Recognized the area from our last trip here. Found our way easily. Saw a procession through the plaza (several different groups of horsemen, limos and a Cinderella like carriage went back and forth and back and forth. ) Cappuccino and jamon/queso bocadillos and a nice stroll and we were back here at the airport by 3P.
Bags, check in, immigration and to the Iberia VIP lounge. Nice enough lounge. Tried to take a nap in their beds but it's probably just as well we couldn't sleep right now. So showered and changed back into my new, perfect-for-overnight flights maxi dress and now just hanging.
Midnight departure (business class, thank you very much) will get us to JNB around 10A to meet up with Robin and Faye for the 3-1/2 hour transport to Welgevonden - likely just in time to dash out for a game drive.
It's a small-er world than it used to be but it's still not blink-of-an-eye travel. Nevertheless, next update from under the Southern Cross.
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Saturday, September 17, 2011
The Metro Market
Well, today was the last day of this trip unless you count the day of traveling back to the States. I try to do that especially when we have our first class upgrades, but it makes for a pretty boring blog post. So this will be it.
We left Merida this morning and flew on Aeromexico to Mexico City. We checked in at the Hilton Hotel right inside Terminal One - which is always tres convenient for next day travel. This time, though, we also picked it so that we could quickly drop off our luggage and head in to the city to visit the Museum of Anthropology. The original plan was to get a little more of a feel for the Mayans and other ancient Mexican cultures, and certainly we did. It's a great museum with amazing pieces so that now Michael is thinking we need to visit Aztec sites.
BUT, it wasn't only ancient societies and cultures that we observed today. You see, we took the metro from the airport to the museum. Now given that many of our friends would have had reservations about coming to Mexico in the first place, more of them would have hopped a cab rather than take the subway. However, the metro here costs 3 pesos. Seriously, 3 pesos. No matter where you go. That's less than 30 cents. To anywhere. How could we pass up that kind of bargain just based on the cost savings alone?
Yet, we got even more value than we bargained for. We got to study anthropology. From the young couples engaging in PDA's that were just this side of having actual sex to the vendors on the trains, it was truly enlightening. The salesmen were amazing. They were selling everything from 'chiclets' (in this case Orbit gum for 3 pesos a package or 2 for 5 pesos) to candy to otter pops to books to mix cds. The last guys must be part of a franchise because even though they were all selling different songs they all had the same cd player hooked to the similar 'backpack' speaker system and they'd play a few seconds of each song and then announce it like a radio dj.
It would drive me crazy if I had to put up with all of that on a daily basis, but we are still on vacation so it was just plain interesting. A little touch of Mexicana, so to speak.
So, signing off for now but not to worry. Our next trip is only a few weeks away: South Africa and Mozambique. Until then, Happy Trails.
We left Merida this morning and flew on Aeromexico to Mexico City. We checked in at the Hilton Hotel right inside Terminal One - which is always tres convenient for next day travel. This time, though, we also picked it so that we could quickly drop off our luggage and head in to the city to visit the Museum of Anthropology. The original plan was to get a little more of a feel for the Mayans and other ancient Mexican cultures, and certainly we did. It's a great museum with amazing pieces so that now Michael is thinking we need to visit Aztec sites.
BUT, it wasn't only ancient societies and cultures that we observed today. You see, we took the metro from the airport to the museum. Now given that many of our friends would have had reservations about coming to Mexico in the first place, more of them would have hopped a cab rather than take the subway. However, the metro here costs 3 pesos. Seriously, 3 pesos. No matter where you go. That's less than 30 cents. To anywhere. How could we pass up that kind of bargain just based on the cost savings alone?
Yet, we got even more value than we bargained for. We got to study anthropology. From the young couples engaging in PDA's that were just this side of having actual sex to the vendors on the trains, it was truly enlightening. The salesmen were amazing. They were selling everything from 'chiclets' (in this case Orbit gum for 3 pesos a package or 2 for 5 pesos) to candy to otter pops to books to mix cds. The last guys must be part of a franchise because even though they were all selling different songs they all had the same cd player hooked to the similar 'backpack' speaker system and they'd play a few seconds of each song and then announce it like a radio dj.
It would drive me crazy if I had to put up with all of that on a daily basis, but we are still on vacation so it was just plain interesting. A little touch of Mexicana, so to speak.
So, signing off for now but not to worry. Our next trip is only a few weeks away: South Africa and Mozambique. Until then, Happy Trails.
Friday, September 16, 2011
How about that?
Just leaving the Hacienda and saw the photos of George and Laura Bush and others of Bill Clinton at Temozon. Don't know that we have ever stayed somewhere a President has stayed. (Let's be serious. Pretty sure we've never before stayed anywhere a President would stay. )
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Hanging at the Hacienda
You’ve probably been wondering what’s become of us. For those of you who might be worried that we’ve been kidnapped or that Tracy was stalking us and that we’ve fallen prey, we are fine. After all those days of getting up and moving on to the next Mayan ruins, we did plan in a day at lovely Hacienda Temozon less that 30 miles out of Merida. So yesterday all we did was have a late breakfast, drive out to Temozon and relax. It is VERY quiet here – like every place we’ve been but more so since we are out in the middle of nowhere. Only saw three other couples since we arrived. When it was a working ranch – back in the day – it covered about 6,600 hectares. Now it’s less than 40. But still pretty isolated.
After lunch (I actually took a chance on my first salad in too many days), we hung by the pool and even IN the pool for the afternoon. Dinner on the veranda overlooking the pool and then a restful night’s sleep in a luxurious bed. This morning after breakfast we are back sitting by the pool waiting to head back into Merida for another night.
The one thing that we were unaware of was that last night was the beginning of the Independence Day celebrations all over Mexico. (Cinco de Mayo commemorates the victory over the French and is apparently a much bigger party in the US than in Mexico.) Last night in Merida there would have been fireworks and partying in the streets. And today there should be parades and more partying. We have no idea if we will have difficulties getting back to our hotel since it is only two blocks off of the main plaza. But for now, just more resting.
Thursday, September 15, 2011
Here's the quiz of the trip
As promised, here is your brain teaser. The real question will be whether or not the ability to answer this question is age-dependent. When we were leaving Campeche with Tracy in tow, she asked for our help. She had seen these 'things' all over town and had taken pictures of them hoping to be able to identify them at some point. Perhaps we could help her. Maybe we knew what they were.
As she was finding the images on her camera to show to us, I was wondering - were they something architectural? cultural? functional? what could this mystery item be that she saw so many of that she was so curious about their origins.....and most importantly would I look like an idiot when I didn't know?
So let's see if you can identify this mysterious, exotic creature:
Here's one:
Here's another:
And just in case, the rear view of another pair:
Seriously, No, I'm not kidding.
Just how damn old am I now that mature, educated individuals traveling on their own in foreign countries have no idea what a VW Bug is?
*BTW they are everywhere here. These four were taken in a one block walk after dinner tonight. I don't even need my reading glasses to pick them out of the crowd. Sheesh!
As she was finding the images on her camera to show to us, I was wondering - were they something architectural? cultural? functional? what could this mystery item be that she saw so many of that she was so curious about their origins.....and most importantly would I look like an idiot when I didn't know?
So let's see if you can identify this mysterious, exotic creature:
Here's one:
Here's another:
And just in case, the rear view of another pair:
Seriously, No, I'm not kidding.
Just how damn old am I now that mature, educated individuals traveling on their own in foreign countries have no idea what a VW Bug is?
*BTW they are everywhere here. These four were taken in a one block walk after dinner tonight. I don't even need my reading glasses to pick them out of the crowd. Sheesh!
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Chichen Itza
It does have the largest, best-preserved ball court. But the ball court was closed so we didn’t actually get to see it.
You do see columns here that we did not see at other sites. But the vendors are EVERYWHERE. And you can’t go into any structures. And you can’t climb any pyramids (which really broke my heart coz I was looking to take a run up another one).
It is interesting to see in the one photo the difference between the pyramid’s maintained/reconstructed staircase on the left (see the little wee man working there?) and the au natural one on the right.
Finally we did stop at the cenote ikil (the natural freshwater pools deep in the post-meteor-crash cracks in the earth). Michael didn’t swim, but I felt obligated. Suffice it to say that the water was not as warm as my swimming pool in Anguilla, the fresh water is NOT particularly buoyant, and I’m not keen on bumping into fish every other stroke.
But now: been there, done that, check.
Pyramid of the Magician at Uxmal (Didn't post earlier)
From: Michael Paul [mailto:mapaul.dvm@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 7:47 AM
To: 'solucky1.blogpost@blogger.com'
Subject: Pyramid of the Magician at Uxmal
Just when you think you've seen it all
After Monday’s rather disappointing trek through the jungle to view the not so picturesque ruins in Calakmul, we were feeling somewhat disenchanted with the prospect of seeing more Mayan ruins. That is, however, why we came here so we endeavored to soldier on. Our new friend, Tracy, was sure that she was finished with ruins but in accepting our ride to Merida she pretty much had to come along. Thank heavens we all did.
Uxmal is Gorgeous. Stunning. Awe-inspiring. And Picturesque to the nth degree. The pictures we’ll post are of the atypically oval-shaped Pyramid of the Magician or Prophet depending on who you read but the story is something about a dude who hatched from an egg and grew to maturity in one day and built the Pyramid that night. Anyway, it’s a site to behold. The carvings on the buildings are extensive with birds here, turtles there, the occasional snake and billions of images of Chaac (the rain god) with his wide toothy smile and big, beaky nose.
Tracy and I climbed up to the top of the Great Pyramid to take the panoramic images with the Pyramid of the Magician off to the right and Michael’s other photo of it was taken just as a light rain began to fall. I think the lighting somehow makes the trees look like they were photo-shopped in.
We finished our tour, grabbed a few beers and took off for Merida just as the daily 4P torrential downpour let loose. Tomorrow we are off to Chichen Itza. Now we are especially hesitant about seeing more ruins because Tracy (who already did Chichen Itza) was blown away by Uxmal. So it may be a letdown, but we can’t exactly stop now.
Meanwhile, get your thinking caps on because the traditional blog quiz will be coming up.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
What a day
Jaeson asked if Mayan ruins are in the middle of town like the Parthenon.
Not hardly. And the ruins at Calakmul must be the extreme. We stayed at the closest hotel to the ruins and even that is nearly 1-1/2 hours of driving to the entrance of the park. Then about ½ hour walking to Structure II which is the tallest Mayan pyramid in the Yucatan. So round trip from the hotel, through just part of the ruins and back again to the hotel took 5 hours.
Have a traveling friend, though. The night before, after we were settled in our beds, we heard someone calling from outside our little hut. Tracy is traveling alone for a couple of weeks since finishing her master's at GWU inTrade Relations. There is no bus to the ruins so she would have had to rent
a taxi to take her up for $100US which is an enormous sum in these parts. So we agreed to take her with us. Given that we were the only tourist there when we arrived at 8:30A and when we left only 8-10 more had arrived, it probably would have been a bit creepy for her to be there alone. Plus, I had someone to climb to the top of that tallest pyramid with rather than doing it myself. Sadly, the photos of the pyramid are taken from the sky. You cannot appreciate its entirety from the ground but I'll post of picture
taken from the top looking at Structure III above the canopy.
Sadly no jaguar spotting. Lots of wild turkeys and we were startled by the eerie sound of howler monkeys on our walk through the Calakmul ruins, but no jaguar. At one point we must have been right under the monkey but just could not see him.
Tracy was also headed to Campeche so we brought her along on the 4 hour drive and dropped her off at her hostel before settling into our hotel. She's going on to Merida today, too, so we'll transport here there as well. Torrential rains engulfed us during the last hour or so of our drive here. And it was still raining lightly last night so we visited the plaza and had dinner and then crashed.
This morning we strolled along the water, had tacos for breakfast at a roadside cart and then some Mexican hot chocolate to top it off.
Just getting ready to head out now.
Not hardly. And the ruins at Calakmul must be the extreme. We stayed at the closest hotel to the ruins and even that is nearly 1-1/2 hours of driving to the entrance of the park. Then about ½ hour walking to Structure II which is the tallest Mayan pyramid in the Yucatan. So round trip from the hotel, through just part of the ruins and back again to the hotel took 5 hours.
Have a traveling friend, though. The night before, after we were settled in our beds, we heard someone calling from outside our little hut. Tracy is traveling alone for a couple of weeks since finishing her master's at GWU inTrade Relations. There is no bus to the ruins so she would have had to rent
a taxi to take her up for $100US which is an enormous sum in these parts. So we agreed to take her with us. Given that we were the only tourist there when we arrived at 8:30A and when we left only 8-10 more had arrived, it probably would have been a bit creepy for her to be there alone. Plus, I had someone to climb to the top of that tallest pyramid with rather than doing it myself. Sadly, the photos of the pyramid are taken from the sky. You cannot appreciate its entirety from the ground but I'll post of picture
taken from the top looking at Structure III above the canopy.
Sadly no jaguar spotting. Lots of wild turkeys and we were startled by the eerie sound of howler monkeys on our walk through the Calakmul ruins, but no jaguar. At one point we must have been right under the monkey but just could not see him.
Tracy was also headed to Campeche so we brought her along on the 4 hour drive and dropped her off at her hostel before settling into our hotel. She's going on to Merida today, too, so we'll transport here there as well. Torrential rains engulfed us during the last hour or so of our drive here. And it was still raining lightly last night so we visited the plaza and had dinner and then crashed.
This morning we strolled along the water, had tacos for breakfast at a roadside cart and then some Mexican hot chocolate to top it off.
Just getting ready to head out now.
Sunday, September 11, 2011
It's a long way to Calakmul....
Up this morning to the Classical Mayan ruins at Palenque. Striking in as much as so many cultures independently developed similar (though clearly not identical) architecture and tombs and bas relief carvings. Photos to follow.
We were lucky to only have the sun peak through the clouds for a little while coz when it did...yowza. Even so a quick shower and change of clothes were called for before heading out on a 4-1/2 hour drive to Calakmul.
At the first of three police checkpoints we rolled down the windows to hear 'Disco Inferno'. At the third one the officer did not ask us to open the trunk again. He asked where we were going and then queried, 'Touristas?' Guess I thought that was apparent from a mile away.
Now we are at the Puerta Calakmul Hotel, a rather rustic place (even by our standards) but only one hour's drive to the ruins in the morning. (According to Frommers, most lodging is an additional 30 minutes down the road!)
So drinking some cerveza and using the wifi. Still waiting to encounter our first English speaking tourist (I would rather not count the young, toothless, southern belle who tried to hit us up for money at the gas station) let alone an English speaking native. Meanwhile, hoping to see a jaguar run through the jungle. Thought I saw a miniature black one cross the highway, but I may have been mistaken. I will keep you 'posted.'
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
We were lucky to only have the sun peak through the clouds for a little while coz when it did...yowza. Even so a quick shower and change of clothes were called for before heading out on a 4-1/2 hour drive to Calakmul.
At the first of three police checkpoints we rolled down the windows to hear 'Disco Inferno'. At the third one the officer did not ask us to open the trunk again. He asked where we were going and then queried, 'Touristas?' Guess I thought that was apparent from a mile away.
Now we are at the Puerta Calakmul Hotel, a rather rustic place (even by our standards) but only one hour's drive to the ruins in the morning. (According to Frommers, most lodging is an additional 30 minutes down the road!)
So drinking some cerveza and using the wifi. Still waiting to encounter our first English speaking tourist (I would rather not count the young, toothless, southern belle who tried to hit us up for money at the gas station) let alone an English speaking native. Meanwhile, hoping to see a jaguar run through the jungle. Thought I saw a miniature black one cross the highway, but I may have been mistaken. I will keep you 'posted.'
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Safe and sound
Didn't mean to worry anyone unnecessarily. We have arrived. We were walking down the jetway when I was sending the last post. Flight was uneventful after that. Bags beat us to the carousel. Hertz was right outside the door but spent nearly an hour arguing in Spanish about the fact that the contract showed one price and the reservation showed another. Still not sure we worked it out - really won't know until the currency conversion gets done.
But the drive was fine. A perfectly good road all the way. The garmin gps actually works even though this trip did not require it.
The hotel is better than expected. And we followed Frommer's recommendation and ate on the plaza at Restaurant Maya which was very good.
Tomorrow: Mayan ruins begin in earnest.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
But the drive was fine. A perfectly good road all the way. The garmin gps actually works even though this trip did not require it.
The hotel is better than expected. And we followed Frommer's recommendation and ate on the plaza at Restaurant Maya which was very good.
Tomorrow: Mayan ruins begin in earnest.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
What did he say?
Well, we were up at 4:30AM to catch a 7AM flight to Mexico city so we could connect at noon:30 and arrive at Villahermosa at 2 with time to pick up the car and drive two hours to Palenque before it got dark.
Luckily the new Amex card got us into a lounge here but since then things have not gone so well.
Flight delayed 45 minutes. Then boarded onto the jetway where we stood for 20 min before the attendant came to announce what we took to be a five minute delay - either to finish cleaning (lavar) the plane or because the toilet was overflowing. Either way it was 35 minutes before they came to tell us, what I confirmed by speaking Spanish to the next passenger in line, was the need to change our plane entirely.
So we are waiting again for what I KNOW she said was 15 minutes to try again.
That was ten minutes ago. We shall see.
Really was NOT planning to take our first drive in Mexico through the jungle in the dark so counting the minutes: dieseseis, deisisiete, deisiocho...
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
Luckily the new Amex card got us into a lounge here but since then things have not gone so well.
Flight delayed 45 minutes. Then boarded onto the jetway where we stood for 20 min before the attendant came to announce what we took to be a five minute delay - either to finish cleaning (lavar) the plane or because the toilet was overflowing. Either way it was 35 minutes before they came to tell us, what I confirmed by speaking Spanish to the next passenger in line, was the need to change our plane entirely.
So we are waiting again for what I KNOW she said was 15 minutes to try again.
That was ten minutes ago. We shall see.
Really was NOT planning to take our first drive in Mexico through the jungle in the dark so counting the minutes: dieseseis, deisisiete, deisiocho...
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Desde folletos a zapatos
In the leather capital of Mexico so had to squeeze in a little shoe shopping (before the nutrition break at the taco place). Tons of shoes at the shoe mall and purses that are made in China using the same leather that Yves St Laurent uses. Would have considered getting one but I didn't care for the brass studs.
Actually didn't buy a purse especially after one of the sales women admired mine, said how nice it was, felt the leather, asked me if I got it here in Leon, and then was disappointed that I bought it in the States.
So still speakin' de Spanish izquierda and derecha. But could not understand what the one salesgirl was trying to say. So she signed on to google translation and typed it in. Viola! 'No credit cards, only cash, for sale items.'
What a world!
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
Actually didn't buy a purse especially after one of the sales women admired mine, said how nice it was, felt the leather, asked me if I got it here in Leon, and then was disappointed that I bought it in the States.
So still speakin' de Spanish izquierda and derecha. But could not understand what the one salesgirl was trying to say. So she signed on to google translation and typed it in. Viola! 'No credit cards, only cash, for sale items.'
What a world!
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
Jeopardy
Especially in a veterinary conference exhibit hall. Not sure if the rifles are for hunting small dogs or if you buy the designer carrier so your Chihuahua can accompany you bear hunting.
Either way it makes for an interesting juxtaposition.
(Sorry about the image quality but these photos were taken with a blackberry that is so old that it would be considered the rotary phone of the smartphone era.)
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