(Sorry these images are out of order but working with really slow Internet so I cannot begin to rearrange them. I will trust you can prove you are not a robot by identifying the images with men in them)
Driving up from the airport yesterday Stephen pointed out the little house structures on the side of the road. (See image) They vary in size but let's say they are 10 ft long. Not houses but rather kind of mausoleums/grave markers with someone buried under them not in them. This is the way people are buried here but not typically by the side of the main road.
When someone is buried in this very public way it is apparently a statement that he was killed in a fight of some sort with another tribe and as such the family is demanding compensation for their loss. There is a process whereby the tribal council(s) determine the compensation (pigs being the primary currency) and restitution is made. Like suing for damages in civil court.
Today we went into the village to visit with and to learn about the wigmen. Their culture and the process of literally growing the wigs. They are not woven from cut hair but rather are grown out and then cut off as one intact wig. The process typically takes about 18 months in special wig schools in isolated locations under strict conditions (nutrition, moisturizing and spirit powers) overseen by the teacher. Once the mat of hair is cut off then the wig maker forms it into the desired shape and painstakingly uses a small awl sort of stick to work the hair into what ends up looking solid - even like smooth felt. Then the wig is adorned with feathers, trim, etc
The gentleman in the picture with the black wig with the really tall feathers is wearing the ceremonial version of the wig which requires the combining of two mats of hair. The other man is wearing an everyday wig. They are both amazingly beautiful. And the rest of their costumes are created with many, many different components from hand woven fabrics, plants, opossum tails, pig tails (to show their wealth), and lots of parts of cassowary birds ( femurs, claws) and hornbill beaks. they are wearable art to be sure.
And while we realize that these two gentlemen dressed up for us today, driving into the village we did pass two other men wearing their every day wigs and dressed just the same.
Now to come back to the burial structure. In the midst of the presentation by these wigmen, there was hollering from the street. In the local language that the guides and the villagers speak. Clearly a raised voice and everyone turned to see. Nobody moved. Nobody looked at us or to reassure us. But a clearly upset and very angry guy came storming up into the clearing. Waving his arms. Screaming and hollering. Motioning for them to stop and at us to leave. Kicking things over. Throwing a large rock at a display of goods.
It was unsettling to say the least. We didn't move at all because nobody was indicating to us what we should do. But I could imagine how that sort of outburst could result in someone being injured or killed. Ultimately our guys talked him down. He left. One of our guys went to talk with him on the street. And we finished with the presentation. I am still not sure what he was so upset about but he came to apologize to us before we left so I hope all was forgiven and that no new road side burial will result
I'm thinking Michael is going to have a new look next time I see him!
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